Exploring 9 Traditional Hanfu Styles for Men
Hanfu isn’t just for women or fantasy dramas. Chinese menswear throughout history was just as rich, refined, and diverse. From the battlefield to the study hall, men’s Hanfu evolved with purpose, culture, and beauty.
Let’s explore 9 traditional types of male Hanfu that deserve the spotlight.
1. 裲裆 (Liangdang)
Originally a vest-like garment with no collar, tied with shoulder straps.
✔️ Used both as everyday wear and leather armor (彌裆铠)
✔️ Worn over small-sleeved robes for ease of movement
✔️ Popular during the Wei-Jin period as both fashion and function
2. 深衣 (Shenyi)
Traced back to the legendary Youyu clan. It combines top + bottom into one seamless robe.
✔️ Straight-hem (直裾): neat vertical robe
✔️ Curved-hem (曲裾): drapes around the body in a soft wrap
✔️ Represents modesty and dignity
3. 直裾袍 (Zhiju Robe)
Literally “straight hem robe,” with a vertical cut and secured with a belt.
✔️ Practical for scholars and daily wear
✔️ Distinct from curved hem (曲裾)
4. 圆领袍 (Yuanling Robe)
A round collared robe popular from Tang to Ming dynasties.
✔️ Tang style: symmetrical, narrow sleeves, lightly raised collar
✔️ Worn by officials, sometimes with chest patches to signify rank
✔️ Equivalent to formalwear in many dynasties
5. 氅衣 (Changyi or Crane Cloak)
A loose outer robe with long sleeves, worn as a stylish winter layer.
✔️ Popular in Jin, Song, and Ming periods
✔️ Worn by literati, poets, and scholars
✔️ Similar to modern cloaks or ponchos
6. 道袍 (Dao Robe)
Derived from earlier garments, the Dao robe was a comfortable Ming dynasty outer robe.
✔️ Straight collar, wide sleeves, slit sides with hidden pleats
✔️ Often had a white collar lining
✔️ Used casually, or even as wedding wear
7. 褡护 (Dahu)
A short-sleeved or sleeveless underlayer.
✔️ Often worn under or over round collar robes for structure and warmth
✔️ White collar typically visible
✔️ Used in the Ming dynasty for both function and form
8. 襴衫 (Lanshan)
Long robe with a distinct seam or "horizontal break" near the knees.
✔️ Worn by scholars and officials in the Song dynasty
✔️ Associated with learning, status, and scholarly aesthetics
9. 贴里 (Tieli)
Looks like a robe and skirt combo, but it’s a single garment.
✔️ Heavily pleated lower half
✔️ Used in Ming dynasty as casual wear or inner robe
✔️ Palace eunuchs and officials also wore variations
While men’s Hanfu might seem subtle compared to ornate women's styles, it carries rich structure, symbolism, and identity. Whether you’re a history lover, reenactor, or just a fashion explorer, understanding these styles connects you to centuries of Chinese culture.
