What to Wear Under Hanfu (and What Not To!)

In this guide, we’ll walk you through what to wear (and what to avoid) under different types of Hanfu—from flowy Tang Dynasty styles to structured Ming and slim-fit Song silhouettes.

1. The Base Layer: What Goes Closest to Your Skin

Just like modern fashion, the base layer is essential. Historically, Hanfu was worn with an inner robe (中衣 zhōngyī)—a soft, breathable cotton or linen layer that separates the skin from outer robes.

For modern wear:

• Best Choice: A thin camisole, bralette, or fitted cotton slip (in nude or white).

• Avoid: Brightly colored bras or thick straps that peek through sheer or light fabrics.

2. Petticoats & Skirt Support

Hanfu skirts—especially Mamianqun (马面裙) and Tang Dynasty ruqun (襦裙)—often benefit from an extra layer underneath for structure and modesty.

• For fullness: Use a half-petticoat (like the kind worn under cheongsam or Lolita skirts) to give volume without heaviness.

• For coverage: Wear a lightweight cotton A-line underskirt to prevent sheerness and thigh cling.

• Avoid: Western-style circle skirts or tulle petticoats that are too voluminous—they can distort the Hanfu’s silhouette.

3. Undershorts: For Modesty and Comfort

Even though Hanfu skirts are long, they’re flowy and can shift easily with movement or wind.

• Recommended: Safety shorts or anti-chafing biker shorts in nude or matching tones.

• Bonus: These help with temperature regulation and reduce static cling in air-conditioned spaces.

4. Seasonal Inner Layers

Hanfu can be layered year-round—with different inner layers depending on weather.

• In summer: Moisture-wicking tank tops and light mesh underskirts.

• In winter: Thermal underlayers (Uniqlo HeatTech), silk long underwear, and fleece-lined tights work well under skirts and robes.

• Pro tip: Choose skin-toned or color-matched underlayers to stay hidden even when sleeves or hems shift.

❌ What Not to Wear Under Hanfu

To maintain the authentic beauty of Hanfu, try to avoid: